Current Issue : October-December Volume : 2026 Issue Number : 4 Articles : 5 Articles
Background: A novel day–night facial serum regimen combining antioxidants, hydrationenhancing agents, and bioactive compounds has been developed to address skin aging. Objective: The aim is to explore changes in skin aging parameters and assess the safety and tolerability of a day-and-night facial serum combination. Methods: In this single-arm, non-randomized, prospective, open-label study, 30 participants aged 35–55 years applied a day facial serum (DFS) and a night facial serum (NFS) for 8 weeks. Objective assessments included skin texture and depression (Antera 3D®), elasticity and firmness (Cutometer®), hydration (Corneometer®), TEWL (Tewameter®), melanin index (Mexameter®), and brightness (Colorimeter®). Evaluations were performed at baseline, at 1 month and 2 months after treatment start, and at 1 month post-treatment. Results: Thirty participants (Fitzpatrick III–IV) completed the study. Significant improvements in skin texture (p = 0.002) and reduction in skin depression (−22.7%, p < 0.001) were observed after 2 months. Skin firmness increased significantly at 1 month (p < 0.001) and remained elevated post-treatment (p = 0.008). The melanin index decreased at 1 month (p = 0.048), while hydration declined after discontinuation (p = 0.016). TEWL showed a significant overall time effect; however, no Bonferroni-adjusted pairwise comparison versus baseline was significant. No significant changes were observed in elasticity or brightness. Mild transient burning was the most common adverse event. Other reported adverse events included acne, miliaria rubra, oiliness, and mild itching; all were non-serious and did not result in treatment discontinuation. Conclusions: The combined DFS and NFS regimen was well tolerated and was associated with favorable changes in skin texture and firmness. Transient local reactions, particularly mild burning sensation, were commonly reported but did not result in treatment discontinuation. Further controlled studies are warranted to confirm these observations....
The demand for naturally derived ingredients in cosmetics is constantly growing, with marine algae emerging as promising candidates due to their rich antioxidant and protective metabolites. Skin aging, driven by oxidative stress, impaired hydration, and weakening of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ), manifests as dryness, loss of elasticity, and reduced density. Conventional synthetic antioxidants raise safety concerns, highlighting the need for effective natural alternatives. Ecklonia cava, an edible brown seaweed abundant in phlorotannins, has been reported to possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, yet its effects on key molecular markers of hydration and DEJ integrity remain underexplored. In this study, we standardized an E. cava extract (ECE) and evaluated its antioxidant activity, gene regulatory effects, and clinical efficacy. ECE was standardized by measuring total polyphenols and flavonoids, evaluated by DPPH scavenging assay, and shown to upregulate DEJ-related genes, reinforcing dermal–epidermal cohesion. A randomized clinical trial further confirmed that topical application of ECE improved hydration, elasticity, and density compared with placebo, with benefits evident within weeks. Collectively, these findings establish ECE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient capable of protecting the skin while enhancing structural and functional aspects of skin health, supporting its potential application in anti-aging skincare....
Glycolic acid is the most widely used alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), largely because of its small molecular size (76 Da), which allows more efficient skin penetration than larger AHAs such as lactic acid (90 Da) or mandelic acid (152 Da). Its efficacy depends on concentration and formulation pH relative to its pKa (~3.8), which determines the amount of free acid available for skin interaction. At pH 3.8, approximately 50% of glycolic acid is present as free acid; at pH 4.5, this fraction falls to approximately 18%. In an 8% formulation, about 4% is free acid at pH 3.8, compared with about 1.4% at pH 4.5. This review examines how formulation design influences the penetration, irritation, and therapeutic outcomes of glycolic acid in professional peels and daily use products. Low-pH, high-concentration professional peels (20–70%, pH approximately 1.0–2.5) promote rapid penetration, calcium chelationmediated corneodesmosome disruption, and controlled exfoliation, but they also increase irritation and transient transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In contrast, buffered daily use formulations (5–15%, pH 3.5–4.5) provide gradual exfoliation, improved tolerability, and longer-term benefits in skin texture, pigmentation, collagen, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Overall, the safety and efficacy of glycolic acid are highly formulation-dependent, so different design strategies are needed for daily products and professional peels....
Background: Squalene is a key sebum lipid that plays an important role in skin barrier function, suppleness, and antioxidant protection. Age-related or disease-associated reductions in squalene levels—for example, in atopic dermatitis—reduce skin resilience and increase susceptibility to environmental stressors. However, its oxidation products can have inflammatory, comedogenic, and pro-aging effects on the skin, which is why adequate stabilization is essential when used in topical formulations. Objective: Therefore, identifying sustainable sources of stable squalene with beneficial skin-care properties is of considerable interest. Methods: This review employed an application-focused literature search and comparative analysis of established and new squalene sources, evaluating chemical composition, manufacturing processes, stability, and biological effects following topical applications based on predefined analytical criteria across peer-reviewed studies. Results: Silphium oil appears to be a promising novel source of highly concentrated, sustainable, and stable squalene with potential skin-conditioning properties at concentrations typically used in cosmetic products (2.1–12.6%) while preliminary formulation tests indicate emulsifiability even at concentrations up to 15%. It contains over 3% squalene, a fatty acid profile with over 66% PUFA, and negligible levels of oxidation byproducts (hexanal < 3 ppm) even after years of storage in various types of packaging. Although independent validation and broader comparative studies are limited, these results reveal new possibilities for the use of previously underutilized plant sources in skin care applications....
Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires objective, non-invasive endpoints alongside standardized clinical grading. Aim: This study aimed to evaluate the clinical and instrumental efficacy of a multi-active topical cream on static and dynamic wrinkles over 8 weeks of twice-a-day use. Methods: After a 2-week washout, we conducted a monocentric, open-label study on 62 Chinese women (25–55) who used the topical cream twice daily for 8 weeks (per-protocol n = 49; dynamic-wrinkle subset n = 41; dermatologist 0–9 grading at T0/Timm/W4/W8). The instrumental endpoints were PRIMOS-CR wrinkle morphometry (forehead, crow’s feet) and periocular high-frequency ultrasound (UC22). Dynamic wrinkles were assessed via high-speed smile imaging (max P10; mean P1–P10). Statistics comprised Wilcoxon’s tests for dermatologist-graded (ordinal) endpoints and repeated-measures ANOVA with Dunnett’s tests for continuous instrumental endpoints (α = 0.05). Results: Improvements were evident at Timm (periorbital elasticity −17.70%, global-face elasticity −15.23%, firmness −19.47%, smoothness −20.16%, radiance −25.75%; all p < 0.001). By Week 8, dermatologist-graded wrinkles generally decreased: crow’s feet −26.89%, under-eye −33.74%, glabellar −35.30%, forehead −34.69% (all p < 0.001). PRIMOS showed reductions in wrinkle area/length (forehead area −8.69%, length −12.05%; crow’s feet area −8.70%, length −16.03%; all p < 0.001). Ultrasound indicated increased periocular epidermal thickness (+26.57%) and density (+12.69%) (both p = 0.005). Dynamic-wrinkle grades improved during smiling (under-eye: max −12.64%, mean −15.74%; crow’s feet: max −15.97%, mean −16.89%; all p < 0.001), with reductions across P1–P10. Conclusions: In real-life, with twice-daily use, the multi-active cream demonstrated significant within-subject improvements in both static and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles, as supported by dermatologist grading, PRIMOS 3D wrinkle morphometry, and periocular high-frequency ultrasound....
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